PSA 10 vs PSA 9: Price Difference, What PSA 10 Means, and Is It Worth It?

PSA 10 is the grade every collector hopes for, and the price gap between a PSA 10 and a PSA 9 of the same card can be enormous: often several times, sometimes ten times or more. This guide explains what a PSA 10 actually means, why one grade point makes such a difference, how to tell whether your card has a realistic chance, and how to work out whether grading is worth it.

What does PSA 10 mean?

PSA (Professional Sports Authenticator) is the largest grading company for trading cards. It grades cards on a scale from 1 to 10. PSA 10, "Gem Mint", is the top of the scale: a card that is essentially perfect to the naked eye, with sharp corners, clean edges, a clean surface and good centering.

PSA's published standard for a 10 allows only the smallest of flaws, such as a slight printing imperfection that doesn't affect the card's appeal. For centering, a PSA 10 needs to be centred roughly 55/45 to 60/40 or better on the front, and about 75/25 or better on the back.

PSA 9, "Mint", is one step down. A PSA 9 is still an excellent card, but it has one minor flaw: a tiny bit of whitening on an edge, a very light surface mark, or slightly off centering.

PSA 10 vs PSA 9: the price difference

For most cards, the jump from PSA 9 to PSA 10 is the biggest price jump on the whole scale. A few reasons:

• Scarcity. For many cards, only a small share of graded copies reach a 10. Fewer copies means higher prices.
• "Best possible" demand. Many collectors only want the finest copy of a card, and a PSA 10 is the top of the population.
• Population reports. PSA publishes how many copies of each card it has graded at each grade. A low PSA 10 population pushes prices up.

How big is the gap? It varies enormously by card:

Always check recent sold prices for both grades of your exact card. Asking prices are not a reliable guide. Our grading calculator links straight to sold listings for PSA 10 and PSA 9 of any card.

PSA 10 vs PSA 9: what the grader sees

The four areas graders score are the same for every grade. The difference between a 10 and a 9 is usually one small issue:

That's why so many cards that look perfect at a glance come back as 9s: the issue is often only visible under strong light or magnification.

How to tell if your card could be a PSA 10

You can't guarantee a grade, but you can rule out a 10 before you pay for grading:

1. Check centering first. Compare the borders left and right, top and bottom, on the front and the back. If one border is clearly thicker, the card is unlikely to get a 10.
2. Inspect the corners under a bright light. Any white showing at a corner usually rules out a 10.
3. Check every edge, front and back, for whitening, especially on cards with dark borders or Pokémon's blue backs.
4. Tilt the card under a single light to reveal scratches, dents and print lines on the surface. Holo and foil cards show these most clearly.
5. Be strict. If you're unsure between a 9 and a 10, assume 9 when deciding whether to grade.

Our condition and grading guide explains how to inspect a card in detail.

Is a PSA 10 worth it?

Grading costs money: the grading fee, shipping both ways, insurance, and the time the card spends away. Whether it pays off depends on three numbers:

1. What the card sells for raw (ungraded).
2. What it sells for at PSA 10, and at PSA 9.
3. What grading costs you in total.

If the card would only be worth more than raw at a 10, you're betting on the top grade. If it's worth more than raw even at a 9, grading is a safer bet. Our free grading calculator does this sum for you: it fills in the card's raw market price, you add the fees and the PSA 10 and PSA 9 prices, and it shows what you'd net in each case and the break-even graded price.

PSA 10 prices for popular cards

The cards collectors most often grade are popular Pokémon, vintage holos and modern chase cards. To see the raw price of any card, and what grading might be worth, look up the card on our site:

• Charizard cards
• Pikachu cards
• Umbreon cards
• Gengar cards
• Most valuable Pokémon cards right now

Each card page shows the raw market price for every printing; from there, the "Should you grade it?" link opens the grading calculator with the card filled in.

Protecting a card you plan to grade

A card can lose its 10 between your hands and the grader's. A few habits protect it:

1. Handle it as little as possible, by the edges, with clean dry hands.
2. Sleeve it straight away in a clean, soft penny sleeve that fits snugly.
3. Use a semi-rigid card holder (often called a card saver) for submissions, because graders find them easier to remove cards from than tight top-loaders, which reduces the risk of damage on the way out.
4. Don't wipe the surface with anything abrasive. If there's dust, a gentle puff of air or a soft microfibre cloth is safest.
5. Store it flat, dry and out of sunlight while you wait to submit.

How submitting to PSA works

The process is broadly the same for every grading company:

1. Create an account on the grading company's website and start a submission.
2. Choose a service level. Fees and turnaround times depend on the card's declared value and how quickly you want it back; check the current price list, because it changes.
3. Enter each card and its declared value. Declare honestly: the value affects the fee tier and the insurance.
4. Pack and ship the cards as instructed, well protected and insured.
5. Wait for grades. You can usually track progress online. Turnaround varies from days to months depending on the service level and demand.
6. Receive your slabs and check each certificate number on the company's website.

Some collectors submit through a local card shop or a group submission instead, which can lower costs for small numbers of cards.

Other grading companies

PSA isn't the only option. Beckett (BGS) and CGC also grade cards, and both have their own top grades: BGS has the Pristine 10 and the rare Black Label, and CGC has the Pristine 10 and Gem Mint 10. A PSA 10, a BGS 10 and a CGC 10 of the same card often sell for different prices, because collectors have preferences. Compare like with like: the same grade from the same company.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between PSA 10 and PSA 9?

A PSA 10 is Gem Mint: essentially perfect. A PSA 9 is Mint: excellent, with one minor flaw such as slight edge whitening, a light surface mark or slightly off centering.

How much more is a PSA 10 worth than a PSA 9?

It depends on the card. For many popular and vintage cards, a PSA 10 sells for several times the price of a PSA 9. For cards that often grade 10, the gap is smaller. Check recent sold listings for both grades of your exact card.

What percentage of cards get a PSA 10?

It varies widely by card, set and era. Modern cards straight from a pack grade 10 more often than vintage cards, but even modern cards frequently come back as 9s because of centering and edge wear. PSA's population reports show the numbers for each card.

Can a card be re-graded to get a 10?

Yes, you can resubmit a card, and some cards do come back with a different grade. But each submission costs money, and there's no guarantee of a better result.

Is it worth grading a card that will get a PSA 9?

Only if the PSA 9 price, minus grading costs, is higher than the raw price. Use the grading calculator to check.